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Know what it takes to build your own High Pressure Aeroponics (HPA)

Gathering information on HPA is very important before building your own system. We can learn a lot from other people’s mistakes and just avoid heartaches. Why go through the school of hard knocks if someone else has done it already? The problem we have is knowing what information is good advice while others are poor. So let’s talk about some of my research here.

First let’s set this straight that true aeroponics is high pressure. It happens to be more complicated but the most rewarding when it comes to plant growth.

The design of HPA can be traced to 1970. However, NASA revolutionized in the 1990s by reporting it as the most efficient way to grow plants in outer space. Many studies have proven the benefits of growing plants in an aeroponic system, both on Earth and in space.

Here are some of the benefits – PROS:
  • It uses up to 98% less water than conventional growing methods
  • The nutrients used are 1/3 the amount needed for hydroponics and soil growing methods
  • We can plant more plants in a closer spacing
  • There is no cost for any soil
  • Some crops can produce up to four harvests annually rather than just two.
Even though aeroponics sound great there are a few downfalls – CONS:
  • There are more pieces or parts to purchase compare to other growing methods
  • It uses an expensive high pressure pump
  • HPA requires close monitoring and maybe frequent maintenance, mainly clogged spray head due to salt buildup.
  • The system depends on electricity to keep it running
  • Relative short failures of the system could lead to loss of your whole crop in minutes instead of hours.

Now, let’s talk about the specifics of building an HPA (High Pressure Aeroponics) system.


There are basically two types of aeroponics


One that NASA produced HPA (High Pressure Aeroponics), and the LPA (Low Pressure Aeroponics) lower cost system. LPA systems are the most common used and built by DIYers.
LPA systems use a standard magdrive pump couple to some PVC or tubing, and a few miniature sprinkler heads. The water spray from an LPA sprinkler head has large droplets that surround the plant roots. LPAs generally run the system 24 hours and 7 days a week, continually wetting the roots. The works well, and are cheap and easy to build. However they are not as efficient as HPA systems.

HPA systems must operate at a high pressure, normally above 80 PSI, ideal is 100 PSI. The high pressure is used to atomize the water through a small orifice to create water droplets of 50 microns or less in diameter. One micron is one-millionth of a meter. The average diameter of human hair is 80 microns. So we are talking about a really tiny water drop. HPA also must run on a much accurate time cycle. HPAs might run 1 to 5 seconds on, and then off 3 to 5 minutes. Specific components are required in controlling the timing interval and creating the proper size mist.

Droplet size

NASA research has shown that plants are more willing to absorb nutrient water in 5 to 50 microns droplets more effectively than any other sizes. Water droplet size is crucial for sustaining aeroponic growth. Too large of a water droplet means less oxygen is available to the root system. Too fine of a water droplet, such as those generated by the ultra-sonic mister, produce excessive root hair without developing a lateral root system for sustained growth in an aeroponic system.

In review, HPAs require high pressure to operate properly for producing the optimal 50 micron droplet size from the misters. Also, HPAs need precise timers that are adjustable down to seconds.

The components of our system:

As mentioned earlier, NASA as shown that plants ae more willing to absorb water in the 5 to 50 microns. Therefore, it is for this understanding that HPA (High Pressure Aeroponics) is more efficient than the most common Low Pressure Aeroponics system.

Again, to achieve the optimal conditions for plant development, it requires some primary components and tools.

The basic components of our HPA are as follows:
  • High-Pressure water pump
  • Pre-Pressurize Accumulator Tank
  • Electrical-Solenoid hooked to an adjustable relay timer
  • Pressure switch
  • Mister nozzles
The High-Pressure Water Pump

The main component of an HPA system is the water pump. The pump has to be able to produce the droplet size of twenty to fifty microns. These kind of pumps are usually diaphragm type or the reverse osmosis boosters. The pump should produce a constant 80psi, so try to find one that can generate 100psi or even more.

When you buy the pump, set it somewhere between 80 and 100psi, any adjustments later will be difficult to be made. If you planned an expansion of your system later on, then get a Shur-flow pump, they are commonly used in soda machines and carpet cleaners.


The Accumulator Tank

You can find these tanks in many homes and RV’s to keep the right water pressure in the pipeline. Mainly, they prevent the pump from overworking. These tanks are pre-pressurized and are divided into two spaces. One space takes up the rubber bladder which expands according to the water pressure, and the other space is taken by the pressurized air.

The pressurized air is used to move the water out when the faucet is turned on. So now, we assume you might be thinking why would you need a tank if you already have a pump that can create the pressure? Well, let us go a little bit back, the water pump is the main component of the HPA system and the most expensive one.

The accumulator tank is there to extend its lifetime and to reduce the time of usage of it. In the long term, the tank will save you money, because if the pump gets broken, the replacement will be way more expensive than the tank.

The accumulator tank has one more key role, and that is to create a constant pressure once the solenoid is opened thus creating the right size droplets. In a system, without the accumulator tank, the size of the droplets wouldn’t be constant, and they would be bigger than they should be.

The Electrical Solenoid

The sole use of the solenoid is to start and stop the water flow to the system when the timer goes on and off. It’s an electronically operated valve. The solenoid is plugged into a relay timer circuit. The system is pretty similar to the simple automatic lawn sprinkler. The best timers for solenoid control are the ones that are accurate to one second on, and in the minutes off.

The Pressure Switch

This part of the system is controlling the pressure. Some pumps have it included, but it can be purchased separately as well. What it does is tell the pump at what pressure it’s supposed to turn on and off. Basically, it senses the pressure of the water, and when it gets too low, it turns on the pump. Once it measures the right pressure, it turns the pump off again. It should be set to turn the pump on at 80psi and off at 100psi.

The Misters

Atomization of the water is achieved by pumping the water through small nozzles at high pressure. We want to save our nutrients, and the cost of operation, so smaller nozzles are what we need. Choose a full-cone nozzle pattern. Higher pressure nozzles have high velocity, and they can cut off the root hairs. Stay away from these. To prevent clogging, use a fine mesh filter prior to misting nozzles.

Source : gardeningwizards & aeroponicsdiy
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Source : Sangkuti.farm
Commercial and small scale catfish farming business is gaining popularity day by day. There are numerous catfish species available throughout the world. Among those species, some are very large in size and some species are smaller. Nowadays catfish are highly available in the market and most of the people love this fish on their table. Although the number of catfish in natural water resources is reducing due to numerous reasons. Lack of natural living place and fishing in a plenty are the most common reason for reducing the number of catfish species. But now people are becoming interested in catfish farming and establishing large or small scale catfish farm commercially. If you like fish farming business, then you can also stock and manage catfish in your pond. There are some steps for starting this fish farming business, which are shortly described below.

Pond Selection for Catfish Farming

Pond selection play a very important role for maintaining a successful catfish farming business. Before selecting the pond for catfish farming, you have to consider the followings.

  • The selected pond must have to be free from flood.
  • Shore of the pond will be strong enough and free from all types of licks and hole.
  • All fish will escape from the pond if there are any hole in the pond shore.
  • Water depth will not be more than 4 feet during rainy season.
  • It will be better if you construct oblong pond instead of squire pond.
  • Construct the pond in an open area, so that the sunlight can directly incur.
Pond Management

Catfish can be cultivated in both new and old pond. But it will be better if you cultivate catfish in an old pond. If you want to use new pond, then you have to use fertilizers such as dung, lime etc. Applying fertilizer after constructing the pond will make the soil fertile. If the soil of your pond is not fertile, then it will hamper the health and proper growth of fish. In case of cultivating in old pond, dry the pond perfectly before stocking catfish. Remove excessive clay and harmful gas before stocking. After that apply lime and other fertilizers. Cover a certain area with pond where you will stock the minnow for first time. Covering the place with net will prevent the fish from some harmful predators such as frog and snakes. Snakes harm a lot than frogs. Fill the pond with fresh water (2 – 3 feet water depth for first time), after making the fence . Stock minnow after 2 to 3 days of filling the pond.


Minnow

After completing all pond management tasks, stock high quality catfish minnow. Purchase 2 to 3 inch size minnow from the hatchery. There are many hatcheries available who are producing high quality, diseases free and highly productive catfish minnow. Apply anti fungus medicines in the pond, after 2 or 3 days of stocking minnow. This will help to keep the minnow free from all types of diseases.

Minnow Density

You can use your pond for cultivating only catfish or with other fish species. If you cultivate catfish with other carp fish, then the stocking density will be at most 2500 to 3000 per acre. You can increase the number, if you cultivate only catfish in a pond. You can cultivate catfish with other fish species such as tilapia fish, pangash etc. You can stock 4000-5000 catfish if you cultivate with pangash or tilapa. Cultivating catfish with carp fish, tilapia or pangash will help to reduce the feeding costs. Catfish will eat the food provided for carp fish from the bottom of the pond, along with consuming their regular feed. The main benefit of catfish farming with carp fish is that, this mixed system help to reduce the quantity of ammonia gas from the pond and ensure a healthy environment for all fish species.


Feed Management


Provide 20% of feed daily for the first 10 days, according to the body weight of stocked fish. Usually catfish minnow like to eat food at night. So serve their feed twice a day. Reduce the feed serving rate to 12 to 15 percent, after the first 10 days. Catfish start taking feed during day time when they reach about 3 inch size. After one months from stocking, provide them 5% of feed daily, according to their body weight. For measuring average weight of catfish, measure the total weight of 10 fish and divide the total weight by 10. For example, total weight of 10 catfish is 2 kg, divide the result by 10. Now the average weight of one catfish is 200 g. Measure average weight of catfish after a certain period and feed them according to their average body weight. Provide them feed twice daily (first in the morning and rest in the evening). Always provide adequate feed according to the age and body weight of the fish. If you provide the catfish less feed than their daily demand, then they will not live and grow properly. And if you serve excessive feed than their demand, then the extra food will pollute water and increase feeding costs.

During Winter Season

Winter season is not favorable for catfish farming. Various diseases affect the catfish during this season. So you have to take extra care during this season. Change water on a regular basis, usually after every 15 days. Apply anti fungus medicine after every one month. Keep water depth within 2 feet. If you notice excessive amount of ammonia gas, then you can use Ganonex medicine (a medicine, usually used for removing ammonia gas).

Catfish Collection

You can use net for collecting fish from the pond. But it’s very difficult to collect catfish from pond by using net. You can use net for collecting a few catfish. But if you want to collect all fish at once, then you have to remove the water from the pond. Always try to collect fish when it’s morning or afternoon. Never collect catfish, when it’s too sunny weather outside. Because collecting catfish in excessive sunny days will damage the condition of fish and you will experience lower rate in the fish market.

Catfish has a great demand and price in the market. Almost all types of people like to have catfish dish on their table. Catfish also has medicinal value and very suitable for the patient. As a result, doctors advice their patient to eat catfish. However, catfish farming is also a very suitable way to earn some income along with your current job. And also a great source for fulfilling your daily family nutritional demand. On an average, you can produce about 4 tons of catfish (in proper care and management) from a pond of one acre within 10 months.

Source : roysfarm.com
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Source : Pixabay.com
Hydroponics is a form of gardening that uses no soil, but instead grows plants in a solution of nutrients mixed with water. There are many advantages to hydroponic gardening:
  • Plants grow faster. Experts suggest that plants grow at least 20 percent faster in hydroponic systems than they do in soil. 
  • Yields are 20 to 25 percent bigger with hydroponic systems, compared to growing in soil. 
  • No soil is required, which can be a distinct advantage in areas where existing garden soil is poor, or for apartment dwellers where growing in soil is inconvenient. 
  • Hydroponic growing takes less space. Plants don't need to grow extensive root systems to obtain the nutrients they need, so plants can be packed together closely—another advantage for those who must garden indoors. 
  • Water is saved. The reservoirs used in hydroponics are enclosed to prevent evaporation, and the systems are sealed. This allows plants to take up only the water they need.
The first step to setting up your first hydroponic garden is selecting a system that best fits your needs from among several options. Important factors to consider include: how much space you have, what you want to grow and how much, cost, and how much available time you have to spend maintaining the system.

The three most basic setups recommended for beginners are the wick, water culture, and ebb and flow. All three of these systems can be built from individual components purchased separately, or you can buy a complete setup kit from online retailers or in a hydroponics store.

Wick Systems
Wick systems are the simplest system mechanically, and the easiest to set up because there are no moving parts. The system contains a reservoir filled with water and nutrients, and above it, there is a container filled with growing medium. The two containers are connected by a wick, which draws the nutrient-filled water up into the growing medium, where it is absorbed by the roots of your plants. This system is great for learning the basics, but it may not work well with large plants or with water-hungry plants such as lettuce, because the wick cannot supply water fast enough. However, this system works extremely well with micro greens, herbs, and peppers.

Water Culture

A water culture system is another extremely simple system to set up. In this system, the plants are placed into a styrofoam platform that sits right on top of the reservoir holding the solution of water and nutrients. A bubbler air pump is added to the reservoir to deliver oxygen to the plant roots. This system is ideally suited for water-hungry plants but is not so well suited for more long-lived plants such as tomatoes.

Ebb and Flow

Ebb and flow systems are slightly more complex in design, but they are extremely versatile. This system works by flooding the growing medium with a water/nutrient solution and then draining it back into the reservoir. To do this, the system requires a submersible pump with a timer. One of the greatest advantages of ebb and flow is that you can use the timer to customize your plants’ watering schedule based on the plant size, number of plants, temperature, humidity, etc. You also have the option of potting plants individually for easy customization or filling the entire tray with growing medium and planting directly in the tray.

Choosing What to Grow

Just about any plant can be grown hydroponically, but for beginners, it is best to start small. The best choices are herbs and vegetables that grow quickly, require little maintenance, and do not need a broad range of nutrients. Fast-growing plants are best since they make it easy to assess how well your system works and tweak it as necessary. It can be a real letdown to wait months until harvest time only to find out your system is not working properly. Maintenance-free plants are great for beginners because they allow you to focus on learning about your system—you can move on to more complex vegetables later. If you are growing a variety of plants, it is also important to make sure that they are similar in their nutrient requirements, so that they grow well together.

Lighting

Hydroponic systems are often indoor systems positioned in places where there isn't access to direct sunlight all day long. Most edible plants require at least six hours of sunlight each day, with 12 to 16 hours even better. So unless you have a sunroom or other such space with lots of window exposure, you'll likely need to provide supplemental grow lights. Hydroponic kit systems usually come with the necessary light fixtures, but if you are piecing together your own components, you will need to buy separate lighting fixtures.

The best lighting for a hydroponics system is HID (High-Intensity Discharge) light fixtures, which can include either HPS (High-Pressure Sodium) or MH (Metal Halide) bulbs. The light from HPS bulbs emits a more orange/red light, which is great for plants in the vegetative growth stage. 

T5 is another type of lighting used in hydroponic grow rooms. It produces a high-output fluorescent light with low heat and low energy consumption. It is ideal for growing plant cuttings and plants with short growth cycles. 

Make sure to put your lighting system on a timer so that the lights come on and go off at the same time each day.

Room Conditions

It's very important that a hydroponic system is set up in the right conditions. Key elements include relative humidity, temperature, CO2 levels, and air circulation. The ideal humidity for a hydroponic grow room is from 40 to 60 percent relative humidity. Higher humidity levels—especially in rooms with poor air circulation—can lead to powdery mildew and other fungal problems.

Ideal temperatures are between 68 and 70 F. High temperatures may cause plants to become stunted, and if the water temperature gets too high, it may lead to root rot.

Your grow room should also have an ample supply of carbon dioxide (CO2). The best way to ensure this is by making sure the room has a constant flow of air. More advanced hydroponic gardeners may supplement CO2 levels in the room, since the more CO2 available, the faster your plants will grow.

Water Quality

Two factors can affect water's ability to deliver dissolved nutrients to your plants: the level of mineral salts in the water, as measured by PPM; and the pH of the water. "Hard" water that contains a high mineral content will not dissolve nutrients as effectively as water with a lower mineral content, so you may need to filter your water if it is high in mineral content. The ideal pH level for water used in a hydroponic system is between 5.8 and 6.2 (slightly acidic). If your water doesn't meet this level, chemicals can be used to adjust the pH into the ideal range. 

Nutrients

The nutrients/fertilizers used in hydroponic systems are available in both liquid and dry forms and in both organic and synthetic types. Either type can be dissolved into water to create the nutrient mixture required by the hydroponic system. The product you use should include both the main macronutrients—nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and magnesium—as well as the important micronutrients, which include trace amounts of iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper, molybdenum, and chlorine.

Many nutrient/fertilizers are available that are designed for hydroponic gardening, and you should have good results if you use them according to package directions. But avoid using standard garden fertilizers in a hydroponic system, as their formulas are designed for use in garden soil, not hydroponic systems. 

Choose hydroponic nutrient products that are designed for your specific needs. For example, some are marketed as being best suited for flowering plants, while others are best for promoting vegetative growth, such as the greenery of leafy vegetables.

Additional Equipment

In addition to the basic hydroponic setup, it's a good idea for beginners to invest in a few additional items. 

You will need meters to test the PPM and pH of the water, as well as the temperature and relative humidity of the room. There are some combination meters available that will test the pH, PPM, and water temperature. You can also purchase meters that measure the temperature and/or the humidity in your grow room.

Depending on your climate, you may need a humidifier or dehumidifier to adjust the relative humidity in the grow room to an optimal level. 

You may want to have some kind of fan or air circulation equipment to improve the air flow in your grow room. Even a simple oscillating fan works well, but as you get more experienced, you may want to invest in a more sophisticated intake-and-exhaust system.

Good Starter Plants

Some plants that work very well for beginners just learning the basics of hydroponic gardening include:
  • Greens such as lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, and kale
  • Herbs such as basil, parsley, oregano, cilantro and mint
  • Tomatoes
  • Strawberries
  • Hot Peppers

Systems For More Advanced Gardeners

Two more complicated systems are best reserved for hydroponic gardeners who have already learned the basics: the N.F.T. system, and the aeroponic system. 

N.F.T. stands for Nutrient Film Technique. It uses a constant flow of water/nutrient solution that flows constantly in a loop from a reservoir through a growing tray, where plant roots are suspended in air and absorb nutrients as the solution flows by. But if something goes wrong with the pump mechanism, the roots can dry quickly when the flow stops. This system requires a user who can monitor the machinery and fix it quickly if problems arise. 

An aeroponic system is a high-tech method in which plant roots are suspended in air and are misted every few minutes with a water/nutrient solution. It is a highly effective method but one that requires sophisticated pumps and misters. If the equipment has problems, the plant roots on will dry out and die very quickly.

Source :www.thespruce.com
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